It was one of Matthieu's big dreams. Swim with whale sharks.
By learning about the Philippines, we quickly understood that there were several places to do it, but that not all of them were equal. Some sites are known for questionable practices, artificial feeding, overpopulation of tourists, little consideration for the animals. By searching a little, we discovered that in the south of Leyte, there was a sanctuary managed differently, with real protection rules. This is where the idea for Padre Burgos came from. And good news: no need to dive to see them. Snorkeling was enough.
Getting there, on the other hand, was deserved. Three hours by boat, forty-five minutes by jeepney, one end on foot. When we disembarked, we weren't sure what awaited us in terms of accommodation. We had booked the hotel a little out of spite, for lack of anything better. And ultimately, it's exactly the kind of place that reminds you why you shouldn't always trust appearances. A pretty bungalow, a direct view of the sea, a terrace to watch the water. And above all, one of the best meals of the stay. The hotel had its own vegetable garden, the cuisine was ultra local, ultra fresh. Completely unexpected, completely memorable.
Padre Burgos itself is a quiet little village, with little to do. But we weren't there for that.
The next morning, departure for the sanctuary. Another hour and a half by boat. Along the way, we picked up the spotters, four guys in small paddle boats that we towed to the area. Their role: to disperse throughout the sanctuary and spot whale sharks on the surface. Engine off, everyone silent, we waited. And then one of them raised his hand. Everyone to the water.
And there they were. Whale sharks, between three and four that day, moving quietly beneath the surface. There were a dozen of us on the boat, never in the water at the same time. We spent almost three hours swimming with them, observing them closely, completely forgetting to count the time. These animals are the largest fish in the world, and seeing them evolve a few meters away, in their environment, without artifice... it was phenomenal. Matthieu had his dream. We both had it.
The journey to get there was worth every minute.
The next day, we took advantage of being there to continue our momentum and do two dives in the morning in the depths of Leyte, around Padre Burgos. Not the most spectacular site of the trip, but a nice additional interlude, and confirmation that we had found something that we didn't want to let go any time soon.
We left without regrets. Well, just one: not having been able to stay longer.